Continuing with this manual, it is time to build the hood, the lintel and attach a smoke oven to the flue.
Previously we built the home and detailed the function of the angled walls, the construction of the lung and collinear. In the upper part we formed the throat, to which we gave 14 cm (two more than normal), then we will install a balanced shot of sheet to ensure a good combustion and a proper evacuation of the gases produced by this.
The walls are still fresh, they gave form to the half point of mouth, and in this step that we will give construction to the lintel we must have particular attention in not excessively damaging when placing the bricks. Excessive fatigue on the base could cause the brick work to fall out. If you have doubts or are insecure, let it dry a couple of days more. But if you are careful then
For the lintel we will use the bricks supported by rope (regard sardine) separated if not less than 2 cm and we will locate them united by their faces, the objective is that in this part we have a ledge that will serve to support, because its destiny is to the height of elbow 1.10 cm and will be part of the projected rustic decoration and we will use it to support the pots that we will later introduce to the oven.
If this stove is designed for the incorporation of a smoker oven, if it is not interested in this part, it is advisable to give its construction by reinforcing the structure that means this way of lifting the wall.
This ledge will make us beam, so the reign of the joints should be made with sand and Portland, while the views will continue with the same we use to settle so that it does not change the color of finish that we are giving to the bag.
We will see half of the brick, in the photo above it is seen how the previous part that integrated the wall of the hood with reinforced mixture was filled and the front will be continued with common mortar, this part is critical in the decoration, as it is one of the pairs that stand out in this design, for which we should devote a good effort in your bag, it is convenient to place a board under the bricks while filling the joints to facilitate the task. It would also be good at this moment of the execution to discard the sponge that we had been using and start again with a new one.
In this part we decided to cover the smoke chamber with veneered bricks, as it seemed neater than leaving the plaster of the wall, in passing we ensure that unwanted leaks do not originate and leave the work of the house totally independent of the structure of the house.
Another aspect that we found interesting, as we are going to hang meat here for smoking is more convenient to clean even in this part could cover the interior with tiles or ceramics, this will depend on the taste of each one, we will do the work by bolting the bricks of the smoke chamber.
If it were for heating, exclusively, we should rethink the lateral lining, since the heat delivery to the next room will be less when installing this brick wall.
Continuing with the bell, which is the part that follows the lintel, whose principle is to act as a smoke absorber and as a channel to the pipeline, we will raise 4 courses the first two will close the triangle while the others will be decoration and they will be the base of the furnace, as you may have noticed we have not used irons.
This is because the way to place the bricks means the points generate a self-supporting mechanics that give great resistance to the chimney, for example the weight of the mouth of the chimney is distributed across the arch to the side walls of the chimney. In the same way, the flue of the chimney will support them in an arch that will be the door of the furnace which will distribute that enormous weight towards the side, transferring its weight just on the sides of the hearth.
These first two courses should be placed as far back as possible, this is to get the ledge to gain the largest possible useful surface, and at the same time get the closure of the bell, this is that the triangle will close us little by little until the pipeline.
To achieve this closing effect, it is convenient to install a wooden or metal reinforcement, where the bricks are supported as we are closing the courses inwards, in the drawing it is better detailed. The stick prevents the wood from sticking and facilitates the removal of the same after setting by the mouth of the home, as we see this passes without problems through the throat, try to try before installing it out below or otherwise we must leave it installed and it will burn when we light the fireplace.-
The next two courses will be the base of the furnace mouth or, failing that, the base of the bell roof where we will then continue the pipeline. To solve the integration of the cover to the set without using concrete or iron, we have run the last two bricks out, 3 cm per time, with this we get two tabs to finish closing the bell. We will use these tabs and the front wall of the fume duct to place the bricks as shown in the cutting plane above. If by this time it is not understood well do not worry because later the pictures will give you a clearer journey.
Undoubtedly one of the most important challenges of this brick stove is not to incorporate iron armor (rods) or concrete, even lower the Portland cement consumption as much as possible, as this will deteriorate quickly with heat, instead if using a large amount of hydrated lime for brick seating. This allowed us to substantially lower the costs of the work and assures us an ecological demolition.
Detail of the lung, seen from above before constructing the duct, in which we can see how the base of it tilts back forming an the object of which is that the remains of fall on this wall and can be cleaned by introducing a by the throat.
The photo above shows the work practically finished, we only have to connect the chimney pipe with the exterior and test the stove after the walls had dried enough, it is convenient not to force the drying and allow the humidity escape by evaporation of the own shot before using it intensively.