Construction and installation of chimney duct

Finally we need to communicate the chimney flue with the outside but first let’s review some parts of this manual:

Construction of the base: Explain how the coil chamber is built to take advantage of the heat of the home’s floor

Construction of the reflecting walls and Lung: These are the ones that give form to the combustion chamber and serve to reflect the radiation of the flames to the outside of the mouth.

Installation of the oven and bell closing: Here the lung was closed by means of a bell and on the

The same oven was installed that will serve in this example for the smoking of porcine products Identification of shooting problems: This is an annex which has a video describing how to solve problems of excessive or inefficient shooting, for the latter it is advisable to raise the shot or the installation of a weather vane.

Finally in this manual we will give construction of the smoke flue and provide a plan of measures of the stove, but this is only for guidance, our desire is not for the user to build a replica as is, so we give measurement relationships and suggestions and possible defects to be taken into account, in any case the plan as it was built this barbecue chimney contains the measurements and has been proven by identifying a defect of excessive draft, for which a record or valve of shot will be installed also known as balance.

In the above image, the oven can be seen, which is optionally constructed and the mouth of the oven can be closed with bricks located on the edge. Now the construction of the pipeline that will transport the combustion gases is not complicated, you only need to raise the 33 x 33 cm square to the ceiling.

They may choose other ways to take the duct outside, in this case we prefer the straightway, and it is to cross the earthenware or roof plate as is the case directly on the duct.

When we have a second plant or a complex fall, this is that if we make the hole could be at risk of large water leaks, we will choose to install an elbow and take the exit by the wall instead of the roof. In our case the slope of the roof is 7% and long to the chimney of 2.5 meters, although there may be a risk that the chimney represents rainwater and occasional leak, we expect that the zinc plate we cut has no joints, then we crossed the same medium of the sheet of 1.10 meters generating a hole of 33 x 33 we left enough space for the water to evacuate the sides.

At the time we lift the pipe we will the inside and outside this will allow us in the future a comfortable cleaning of the soot, because like any stove is very advisable to call the chimney sweep before the winter period begins, fire may occur in the shot if this It contains a lot of carbon crust adhering.

To prevent the water from entering the interior, in metal ceilings the sheet is bent as shown in the drawing in such a way that it acts as a dam. In this way, before falling inward, it discards the channels towards the ends. To cut the hole we use an angle grinder without removing the sheet from the ceiling, but keep in mind that it must coincide perfectly with the rise of the shot. To mark the edges of the square we drill with drill from below, helping with a level so that the hole serves as a guide for where to cut.

When the roof is made of concrete, we will proceed in the same way, marking with a drill and making a cut in the lower part of the tile with grinder and Widia disc. in the center, where the conduit will pass, we will make a hole with a drill, and then from the roof with allude of a short cold and we will enlarge the first hole created by the drill hole. We will leave the cut of the earthenware irons for the end, for safety reasons.

To elevate the pipe to lead with the help of a lapis we will draw its contour on the wall and this will serve as a guide, as usual we will the exterior while growing the courses, as seen in the part where the sky created a brick flange, this is to hide the juncture of same with the chimney and we avoid the installation of joint or half pipe, because the plaster sheet supports the eyelash that remains in sight.

The upper part seems very obvious to dealer, because it consists of elevating the pipe to the outside and it is completely different for each roof, vastly recommended to exceed 70 cm any wall or parapet that could repair the perfect evacuation of gases of combustion, in this installation metal stoves are better explained.

Brick industrial chimney

The industrial chimneys executed on the basis of a brick factory were one of the most emblematic elements of industrial architecture. Its construction derived from the need for the extraction of fumes from steam engines and the circulation of air that facilitated combustion, strongly marking the landscape that surrounded them.

The industrial chimneys executed on the basis of a brick factory were one of the most emblematic elements of industrial architecture. Its construction derived from the need for the extraction of fumes from steam engines and the circulation of air that facilitated combustion, strongly marking the landscape that surrounded them.

Currently, many of the examples of industrial architecture existing in Portugal are abandoned, given to a degradation accentuated by years of neglect. In spite of everything, there are still several industrial complexes where some emblematic fireplaces resist to the caprices of the abandonment and lack of maintenance.

The study fireplace was part of a ceramic elements factory founded in 1910 and represents an excellent example of the industrial architecture of the early s. XX. Its environment, which has undergone a deep development in the last ten years, has become a cultural and recreational area, turning the chimney into a singular construction to conserve. Like many other specimens of the same period, the chimney is built of solid bricks bound with lime mortar, with a maximum height of about 40 m.

The intervention of NCREP in the chimney consisted in the realization of a geometric survey through Laser Scanning technology, in the visual inspection in all its height, with registration of the points with damages and the intensity of these in own maps, and in the conducting a campaign of dynamic identification tests in situ, studying the environmental vibration. Finally, all the results collected served as the basis for the development of a numerical model of finite elements, with non-linear behavior, with the aim of evaluating their structural safety considering the usual acting actions.

How to Build an External Fireplace – Part 2

Determine the size of the chimney. Size must match the surroundings. Consider whether you want the fireplace to be the center point of the backyard or a complement to an already impressive view.

Try to design the chimney with proportions in mind. It is not recommended that the fireplace completely opacity the size of the house or be reduced by the size of the house.

Choose between firewood or gas. What kind of fireplace is best for you? Many outside fireplaces are either wood or gas. Each method offers advantages and disadvantages:

A wood-burning fireplace provides a natural view and emits a smell that gas fireplaces cannot match. A traditional fireplace also produces a significant amount of smoke, so you must have an exhaust built to strict specifications.

The most important consideration when constructing a gas fireplace is to connect the fireplace to an existing gas line. Gas fireplaces offer many advantages over wood-burning stoves: they do not produce ashes or embers, they do not need an exhaust and rarely require building permits. However, they do not burn so much and lack the rustic charm of a wood-burning unit.

If you are going to build a wood burning fireplace, get a building permit. Most firewood units require permits. Contact the municipal government about restrictions and other requirements. You can begin construction after obtaining the building permit.

The city must inspect the chimney before it can be used.

Find the gas line if you want a gas fireplace. The gas company can help you locate the line closest to the fireplace location.

How to Build an External Fireplace

An outdoor fireplace can be an impressive addition to your home, giving the back gardens a decorative and functional central point. However, outdoor fireplaces demand thorough evaluation even before construction, especially if you plan to make one from scratch. If you want to build an outdoor fireplace that will last a lifetime, follow these steps.

Consider the purpose of the outdoor fireplace. The reasons for building an outdoor fireplace vary, but it is necessary to consider some elements to successfully complete the project no matter what.

Environment: Fireplaces can create the atmosphere. A comfortable open fireplace provides an intimate setting for small groups. If you have big parties, consider building a fireplace with two open ends to accommodate more people. A fire pit provides views of all the observation points and the feeling of being in a campfire.

Functionality: You can build a fireplace that also serves as a barbecue or pizza oven, but these designs are very complex.

Consider the design of the stove. Many owners coordinate the stone from the fireplace with the residence stone, but it is not mandatory. The brick offers a more traditional fa├žade, while the stacked stone gives the fireplace a more contemporary look. [1] If you do not want an outside stone, stucco is a popular alternative.

Choose a fireplace design

Get an easy-armed and efficient chimney kit. The kits for fireplaces are varied, from simple units to ornamented with bells and whistles. The great thing about chimney kits is that they come in a variety of styles that fit your budget. Are you on a tight budget? No problem, there is a kit for you. Do you have a bigger one? The sky is the limit, literally.

Create your own design. Do you consider yourself a builder or are you a bricklayer? Why settle for a kit when you can create a design in your head without having to compromise? Most of your own designs use concrete blocks or other firm and economical material as a skeleton. Then the skeleton is covered with stone or other clad rock. Consider the three main elements of an outdoor fireplace when designing:

Base: A reinforced concrete base is best for a fireplace. Custom fireplaces are usually heavier than prefabricated fireplaces, which means that the base should be stronger and thicker than normal.

Combustion box: the combustion box will house the fire and must be made of refractory brick if you make it yourself. On the other hand, you can buy a combustion box if you do not want to make it yourself. Materials include stainless steel and other types of brick.

Exhaust or ventilation ducts: A wood-burning fireplace needs an escape with a spark arrester, whereas a gas fireplace only requires ventilation ducts

Consider adding additional functions to the fireplace area. The fireplace does not have to be a stove. In fact, if you build an outdoor chimney, it makes sense to equip it with other uses or ornaments. Consider the following:

Built-in seats: Warming yourself to the heat of the stove is a delight, so why do not you build walls to sit in the fireplace itself? It looks excellent and gives charm to any fireplace.

Wood storage: If you construct a fireplace with wood, it is convenient to make a compartment or space for the wood, that makes it easier to store it.

Build a chimney – Part 2

Build or add an exhaust for fireplaces. The chimney must be constructed to the exact specifications to ensure adequate smoke output from inside the combustion box. It must have a smoke blocker to prevent it from descending and a duct of optimum dimensions. The exhaust must also be at least half a meter (2 feet) higher than any adjacent structure.

Add spark arrestor. Like the exhaust, the spark suppressor is exclusive to wood-burning fireplaces. Catch the embers of the stove.

Install the home. The hearth is the protrusion at the opening of the chimney and perhaps the center point of the chimney outside. Installing it properly is an important part of building an outdoor fireplace.

Place mortar into 2 cm (3/4 inch) deep strips, 1 inch (2.5 cm) from each.

Install the home with a rubber mallet and level to make sure it is straight and level. If the home is not glued to the combustion box, no problem. This will make it harder for sparks to fly out of the box.

Select a stone style for the cladding. Apply mortar to the back of the stones and glue them onto the concrete blocks. Use spacers to separate the rocks, filling the area between them with mortar.

With perfect 90-degree corners, it avoids the continuous joints that extend throughout the chimney. Instead, make an asymmetrical surface. Place the first rock pressed into a corner and separate the next rock about 2 cm (1 inch) from the first. With the following two rocks, alternate the joint. Put the first stone separated and the second stone pressed to the wall. This creates an attractive alternating pattern that goes from the corners of the fireplace.

Once installed, allow the mortar to harden for at least 24 hours. If possible, give the fireplace several days of rest before using it.

Connects a gas fireplace to a gas line. If you build a gas fireplace, be prepared to connect it to a line.

Turn off the gas.

Use plumber’s putty in the main line connections to connect it to the flexible lines.

Adjust the connection with a wrench until the filler hardens. Test the connection by applying soap on it.

Turn on the gas. If bubbles appear, reinstall the connection.

You gave value to your home successfully and revitalized your backyard. Enjoy your new outdoor fireplace!

Build a chimney

Empty the concrete for the base if you have not already done so. Install the base first, digging a trench and using a compactor blade to level the base. Mix and pour the cement and let it sit for at least 24 hours or more.

Check with local building authorities to see how deep the base should be. Some locations need concrete bases that are only 15 cm (6 inches) deep, while others need more than 30 cm (1 foot).

Note: Although concrete and mortar are similar, they are different adhesion agents and should be used differently. You will use the concrete as a base if necessary and the mortar to adhere concrete or concrete blocks.

Apply the mortar to the base and begin to place the layers of concrete or concrete blocks. Follow the building plans precisely, making sure each row of blocks is level.

When creating the base, be sure to use a level to ensure even placement of concrete or concrete blocks.

If you are going to use concrete blocks, apply the mortar between each row, as well as between the individual pieces.

If necessary, lay the refractory brick inside the combustion box. Special care must be taken when installing the refractory brick in the combustion box. Laying it in a nice pattern and using the proper mortar is an important consideration.

Choose a nice interior pattern for refractory brick. An asymmetric pattern works very well in a combustion box. Find the center of the combustion box and draw a line towards the front of the combustion box.

Place a refractory brick immediately to the left and right of the dividing line, fitted to the front of the combustion box, leaving about a half inch (1/4-inch) between the two. Place a brick immediately on the two bricks, exactly in the middle. On the latter, place two bricks in the same pattern as the originals.

Mix mortar with mortar for high temperatures. In this way, the high temperature will not compromise the mortar that holds the refractory bricks together.

When you set the bricks, cut it as necessary is the corners and edges. While you may not cut the center pieces of the combustion box, the corners and edges will force you to do so.

Remove the air bubbles from the mortar for the refractory bricks with a marker of joints and a brush. Apply the mortar at each joint with the marker. Then brush the excess mortar with a clean brush, letting the combustion box dry for at least 24 hours.